What size consumer unit do I need?
By Steve Green · Updated · 6 min read
Step 1: count your circuits
A typical modern house has more circuits than people expect. Tick off the ones that apply:
- Downstairs lighting
- Upstairs lighting
- Downstairs sockets (ring or radials)
- Upstairs sockets
- Kitchen sockets — usually a dedicated circuit
- Cooker / hob
- Electric shower
- Immersion heater
- Boiler or heating controls
- Smoke and heat alarms
- Outside sockets or garden lighting
- Garage, shed or outbuilding supply
- EV charge point
- Solar PV / battery / heat pump
Step 2: add the non-circuit ways
| Item | Ways used |
|---|---|
| Main switch (100A DP) | 2 on most ranges |
| Type 2 surge protection device | 1–2 |
| Each RCBO-protected circuit | 1 |
| Recommended spare capacity | 2+ |
This is the point people get caught out. A "10-way" board with a main switch and an SPD leaves roughly seven usable circuits — not ten.
Quick sizing by property
| Property | Typical circuits | Recommended board |
|---|---|---|
| 1-bed flat | 5–6 | 8-way |
| 2-bed flat / small terrace | 6–8 | 10-way |
| 3-bed semi | 8–10 | 12-way |
| 4-bed detached | 10–13 | 16-way |
| Extended / annexe / home office | 13–16 | 18-way or split boards |
Step 3: plan for what's coming
The single most common reason we return to a board within five years is an EV charger installation. A charge point needs its own way, and load management or a heat pump will want another. Specifying two spare ways at the outset costs very little compared with replacing the board again later.
RCBOs versus split-load boards
A split-load board shares one RCD across several circuits, so a fault on the fridge can also kill the lighting. An all-RCBO board isolates faults to the single affected circuit. For anyone working from home or with a freezer, the discrimination is worth the difference in price. All-RCBO boards also make fault finding considerably faster.
Also check the incoming supply
Board size is only half the picture. The main fuse (usually 60A, 80A or 100A), earthing arrangement (TN-S, TN-C-S or TT) and main protective bonding all have to be right before a new board is energised. If bonding to gas and water is undersized, it must be upgraded as part of the work — a legitimate cost, not an upsell.
Not sure whether you need a new board at all? Read fuse board vs consumer unit, or see our consumer unit replacement service for what is included and what it costs.
Frequently asked
- How many ways does a standard UK house consumer unit need?
- Most three-bedroom homes are properly served by a 10 to 12-way board. That covers upstairs and downstairs lighting, upstairs and downstairs sockets, kitchen ring, cooker, shower, smoke alarms and immersion, with two or three spare ways for future circuits.
- What does 'way' mean on a consumer unit?
- A way is a single module position on the busbar, each taking one protective device. An RCBO occupies one way and protects one circuit. A main switch and any surge protection device also occupy ways, so a '10-way' board does not give you 10 usable circuits.
- Do I need RCBOs or an RCD split-load board?
- RCBOs are now the default choice. Each circuit has its own combined RCD and MCB, so a fault on one circuit does not take out half the house. Split-load boards with shared RCDs are cheaper but a single earth fault can disconnect several circuits at once.
- Does a new consumer unit have to be metal?
- Yes, for domestic premises. Since Amendment 3 to BS 7671 in 2016, consumer units in domestic installations must have a non-combustible enclosure or be housed in one — in practice this means a steel enclosure.
- Do I need surge protection?
- BS 7671 requires an assessment of the risk. In practice a Type 2 SPD is fitted in most new domestic boards, and it is strongly recommended where the property has significant electronic equipment, solar PV, an EV charger or a heat pump. It occupies one or two ways.
Need a straight answer about your own property?
Call 0203 576 6961 — answered by a real person, available 24/7 — or request a free written quote.
